Over the course of the early 19th century, women’s hemlines and sleeves became increasingly larger. Fashion in the 1850s showcased these styles, which had reached ridiculous proportions. Just ask Rose, the heroine in Rose’s Assignment. Her skirts often make maneuvering difficult. In the novella, Rose’s dresses are a running gag, but in reality the skirts were dangerous. They easily caught fire while women cooked or warmed themselves, and they caught on wagons’ axles, dragging women and leaving them severely injured or dead.
The fashion in the 1850s witnessed two radical changes – the sewing machine and synthetic fabric dyes. Fashion magazines, including Godey’s Lady Book, provided readers with patterns to replicate the latest styles.

An 1859 fashion plate from Godey’s Magazine showing women wearing crinolines under their skirts. The crinoline was new on the fashion scene, having debuted a few years prior, and replaced wearing multiple layers of petticoats to achieve the same effect.
Women’s Fashion in the 1850s
The crinoline, also known as the hoop skirt, arrived on the fashion scene in 1856. It was comprised of a bell-shaped cage worn under women’s clothing. It replaced the dozen or so starched petticoats women wore to achieved the same look.
Proper undergarments included a corset, pantalets, petticoats and a chemise. Corsets were worn looser in the 1850s as skirts’ waistlines sat at the natural waist. Pantalets, once only worn by girls, were adopted by women to cover the legs for modesty should they become exposed by a swinging crinoline.
Dresses also were known for pagoda sleeves. These wide bell-shaped sleeves were worn over false undersleeves decorated in lace or other trimming. The sleeves reached their widest point in the final years of the decade.

A dress from 1852
Women wore boots outdoors (for modesty) and slippers or slip-on shoes indoors. They wore bonnets decorated in ribbons and flowers over curled hair. Other fashion accessories of the period included a parasol, a shawl and a purse (called a reticule).

A typical 1850s hairstyle

Straw and horsehair hat. 1850s. Rose wears a bonnet similar to this one on a hot summer day.
Men’s Fashion
While women’s hems grew to laughable proportions, menswear became more relaxed. The sewing machine dramatically cut down the amount of time needed to make clothing, meaning even working-class men could afford to dress sharply.
Plaids and checks were popular patterns for trousers and waistcoats, although black became vogue by 1859.
Sideburns and other facial hair were popular among men.
Top hats grew increasingly taller while the bowler hat, a clothing staple by century’s end, made its debut as a working man’s hat.

Fashion plate from Gentlemen’s Magazine, 1853. Men’s sideburns were all the rage as were plaid trousers.