Fashion in the 1910s changed dramatically. When the decade began, styles were very similar to those of the previous decade. Clothing, however, was beginning to show the shape of the female body, with the S-shape curve falling out of fashion. By the end of the decade, fashions began to resemble those of the 1920s.
Some trends in 1910s fashion:
- Corsets became easier to move in and were used to support the body, not reshape it.
- Hats were large and decorative and made a definite statement.
- The hobble skirt, a cousin of today’s maxi skirt, was a popular fashion choice as was the lampshade shirt. The hobble skirt got its name because it was very narrow at the ankle, forcing women to hobble to get from place to place. The lampshade skirt had asymmetrical draping.
- Women began to bob their hair, although the trend was considered shocking to some and took years to catch on.
Bobbed hair
The War Changes Fashion in the 1910s
World War I brought about many changes for women, including fashion. Women no longer had time to devote to fashion, and trends like large hats and hobble skirts became impractical. Women required clothing that reflected the reality of their new roles.
Among the changes:
- Women doing certain jobs, such as manufacturing and mining, began wearing trousers.
- Skirt waistlines sat at the natural waist.
- Skirts became fuller to allow free movement.
- Hemlines shortened, reaching about six inches above the ankle.
- Darker times meant dark colors.
- Costume jewelry was introduced as a substitute for real jewels.
- Hats became smaller along with the length of women’s hair.
- The V neck replaced high necklines.
Housedresses in Woman’s Home Companion, 1919
The Controversial Corset
The corset is probably considered the most uncomfortable garment ever invented, not only because it constricts the body, but also because it is symbolic of women being constricted in society. Was this true, or is it a stereotype?
Corsets have been part of a woman’s wardrobe since antiquity. Over the centuries, they evolved and changed. The constricting garment that 21st century minds often think of is the underwear of the upper classes, so constricting it needed a second person to pull it tight. Women in the middle and lower classes also wore corsets, but because these women didn’t have personal servants, they had to dress themselves. Their corsets opened and closed in the front and were not as binding.
The history of the corset is tied to the history of fashion and what is or is not considered beautiful. When being thin was in fashion, so were corsets.
By the mid-Victorian period, corsets were lined with whalebone to allow women to fit into dresses that had increasingly tighter bodices and smaller waists. During this timeframe, corsets gave women an hourglass shape.
That changed during the Edwardian period. The Gibson Girl of the 1890s popularized the S-curve. This shape emphasized a woman’s bust and butt, pushing both outward, while slimming the waistline.
Fashion Print from McCall’s Magazine, circa 1916
Medicinal Corsets
Montgomery Ward & Co.’s 1895 catalogue had its own corset department. The undergarments were sold in sizes 18 to 30 for women and sizes 19 to 26 for girls. Sizes were based on a woman’s waist measurement minus two inches. Corsets weighed 12 ounces and ranged in price from 50 cents to $3.
Some of the corsets sold in the catalogue were called “health corsets” and were designed to support the abdominal muscles, especially after multiple births.
“The Yatisi [a manufacturer] Corset was introduced especially for married ladies,” the product description says. “It supports the abdomen and prevents the ordinary pressure upon the pelvis organs.”
There also were nursing corsets.
“Dr. Strong’s [another manufacturer] Tricore Nursing Corset has proved a great comfort to mothers, as it affords perfect freedom of action in every position which the body can assume,” another product description says.
Health Problems Posed by Corsets
Yvette Mahé, a PhD and Fashion in Time historian, examined the side effects of corsets on the body.
“The corset was undoubtedly a danger to health as it pushed against the rib cage, dug into the stomach, and likely put pressure on the organs,” Mahé says.
Mahé cites several physicians who have listed the detrimental health effects of corsets. Issues include:
- Infertility
- Breathing problems
- Achy muscles and joints
- Digestive issues
- Heartburn
- Blocked blood flow
Not everyone agrees with this hypothesis. Glamorous Corset, a modern-day corset retailer, disagrees.
“Some doctors supported the theory that corset may cause health injuries, specifically during pregnancy and women who practiced tight-lacing were looked upon as slaves to fashion,” Glamorous Corset says. “In reality, tight-lacing was most likely the cause of indigestion and constipation but rarely the cause for a plethora of ailments associated with tight corseting at the time ranging from hysteria to liver failure.”